Our journey started from Edinburgh and was set to take us straight through the heart of the Troussach National Park. Knowing that we were about to set eyes on the forests, hills, mountains, rivers and waterfalls that I have so often dreamed about had left me very nervous yet excited for the coming trip. We stopped off along the way, including a very short walk up Ben Ann simply for the views which as promised were breath taking. Though the path up was busy and sadly littered with waste left behind by tourists it was worth the stop. From here we meandered through the hills until we reached the outskirts of Oban where we turned off down a small single-track road which headed back towards the hills. A few twists and turns later we reached the very worn and bumpy track that would lead us to Inverlonan’s Bothies.
Lesley greeted us at the gate in her 4x4 buggy which is most definitely needed for the rocky and boggy path down to the cabins. The ride itself is a highlight of the trip and is something you will not likely forget. A few minutes of bumps and puddles later our cabin Uisge came into view. Nestled underneath an ancient oak tree, on the very edge on Loch Nell with a rust coloured roof and wooden shell it seemed as if it was part of the landscape itself. After a quick introduction and lesson on how to use the shower (which admittedly seemed unlikely do to the weather) we were left alone to our own devices and to settle in for the day.
First things first was a swim. Of all things to do on a windy, wet and chilly day at the end of October it might not be on the top of everyone’s list, but Poppy is very much one with the water. Bare foot and shivering we made our way just over the hill, past Beatha the other cabin and down to a small secluded beach. Poppy slowly waded in amongst the lapping waves and clear waters of Loch Nell with rain pattering the waters surface. We didn’t quite trust ourselves to try our hand at paddle boarding or the twin kayak with the wind picking up, so we ran back to the cabin, washed our feet with the rain pump and set about getting the fire going for the night.
The rest of our evening consisted of sitting cosy in front of the fire and prepping tea. With the weather whipping up quite the squall outside we opted to cook inside after what was a small battle with the winds outside. We had been left a feast of pizza dough, mozzarella, various veggies and a packet of cured venison to get creative with and sure enough we were happy with full bellies by the end of the evening. We are in this advanced day an age often bombarded by screens and distractions but the silence and simplicity of Uisge was a welcoming to us both. We tended to the fire, boiled the kettle atop the wood stove, played chess, cards and chatted until our eyes started to become heavy. And so, to bed it was which is attained by a quick shimmy up the ladder. As a couple who have grown up in the countryside, with dark nights and quiet ones too we both slept soundly to natures melody of whistling wind and heavy rain on the sky light. Better yet the darkness was pitch black and not a single sign of a streetlight or passing car to wake you. I will indeed be back to stargaze as I’m sure that on a clear winters night the sky would be full stars, the like I have never seen.
We were up before the sun to get the fire going so we could grab a shower and cook breakfast. You really are dependent on the fire to live here and there is something very fulfilling about keeping it going even when it’s almost snuffed itself out. First things first was a shower. The wind was raging, and the rain had just started. We boiled the kettle popped it into the shower bag and Poppy took the plunge. I was not so brave having seen Poppy’s reaction to the wind against her skin, so we hurried back inside to get some coffee on and more importantly some food down us before heading back home. Breakfast was left for us in the cooler box outside and inside was an all locally sourced meat, butter and milk. We rustled up some muesli for starters and then eggs on toast for Poppy, bacon and eggs for me. It was delicious and may I add one of the nicest pots of coffee we have ever had, so much so that we’ve grabbed ourselves at Moka pot for our own future endeavours. We had the rest of the morning to relax. I went for a wander around the shore of the loch whilst Poppy took time to read and draw in front of the still crackling fire.
Although our time at Uisge was only short it was a well needed break from city life and we enjoyed every second. We knew it was time to leave when we heard the distant chug of the buggy and Lesley came to whisk us back up the hill.
The views on the way back to our car we clear and mountainous, we were lucky enough to have a large bird of prey perch on the gate post only a few meters from us. We said our farewells and headed back home down the winding road towards the hills. We took the scenic route home to get one last glimpse of life at Inverlonan and then it was on through the Trossachs, back to Edinburgh and our flat which now has a Moka pot to remind us of our first stay at Uisge. I hope it will not be the last.
